paren nyawi's blog: Dayak Borneo's Vest & Ceremonial Jacket-Kelambi & Baju Burung

Iban's kelambi(Baju) Vest woven -Sungkit Technique.(Antu Engkaramba)
Iban child’s kelambi vest woven with geometric and protective"engkaramba spirit figures "using the sophisticated sungkit(embroidery on the loom) technique (c. 1900s).

Borneo Dayak Vest & Jacket......(Woven Cloth & Bark Cloth)..link previous post..

KELAMBI/KELAMBEK IBAN (Man/s WAR/HUNTING JACKET)
This special jacket to protect Ibam men from the arrows of the enemy and the evil spirits of the forests. Woven from hand grown, handspun cotton, with Ikat dyed main panels with rare Kilim or slit tapestry weave bottom border. The native dyes used are Kumba root for the red and Indigo blue to create rare anthropomorphic "engkaramba" protective spirit figures.

Kelambi' Pilih
Ceremonial woven jacket, decorated with geometric motifs.

Antique Iban vest anthropomorphs & birds motif
Circa early 20th century Iban ceremonial vest of continuous supplementary float weft technique (locally called “pilih”) from the Sibu area of the lower Rejang River in Sarawak, Borneo Island. Most likely belonging to a warrior because of the predominantly bright red color, the vest’s main motif is of anthropomorphic figures (“engkaramba”) and omen birds (“burong”). The vest’s lower front motif is two rows of diamond-headed male anthropomorphic figures. On the other hand, the top portion comprises three rows of omen birds and a row of hooks and diamond designs. At the vest's back are additional bird patterns and diamond shaped designs. The ground cotton used is made of very sturdy yarn. A small rectangular piece of cotton cloth attaches the vest’s front and back at the sides. Measuring 18 inches from shoulder to hemline, plus 3 inches of tassels, and 15 inches from shoulder to shoulder, the vest is in good condition, with some loss of colored threads especially at the back. The probably original two brass buttons are still in excellent condition. Each button has a different design, one of which is a bulging knob. The inside lining is made of thin finely woven cotton, and has brown stains and small holes. (The interested viewer can refer to “Iban or sea Dayak fabric and their patterns” by A.C. Haddon & L.E. Start, 1982 edition, plates VII-IX for the identification of bird patterns, and p.25 Fig.11 for an illustration of Iban jacket buttons)

A vest in "pilih" weave of an Iban-Dayak warrior-headhunter, early 20th century, possibly very late 19th century, coming from the Sibu area of the lower Rejang River in Sarawak, Borneo Island. The vest is hand-woven in "pilih" or supplementary float weave of red, black, brown and yellow threads over thick hand-spun cotton foundation. The "pilih" pattern is geometric, mainly diamonds, triangles and zigzags. Underneath the vest is lined by old thin cotton, with tears, stains and holes. The vest had apparently been edged with red flannel cloth, of which fragmentary strips and some reddening of the edges remain. Some of the colored threads especially at the back have been lost due to years of use. A vest with fascinating geometrics to dazzle and at the same time tease the eyes.

Kelambi'
Ceremonial woven jacket, decorated with geometric motifs.
Cotton, patterned by ikat technique.

Dayak Iban''s jacket(KELAMBI)
ORIGIN: Sarawak Rajang River region,
Entawau longhouse, Iban people
c.1865-1875
Cotton

KELAMBI(BAJU) BURI(MEMALOH'S VEST)
ORIGIN :KALIMANTAN,BORNEO
A graphically abstract vest from the Dayak of Borneo.
Nassa shells are sewn on black cotton in the form of an aso, the mythical dragon beast of Borneo. .Early 20th century.

KELAMBI BURI (DAYAK MEMALOH & IBAN VEST)
Ceremonial woven jacket, adorned with cowrie shells stitched on the base fabric ending with
bronze and beaded knots. It is decorated with geometric motifs

DAYAK IBAN IKAT VEST
ORIGIN:SARAWAK BORNEO(circa 60 years old)
An ikat bird vest ("kalambi burong") . The overall design is of repeating bands of bird-with-comb ("burong besugu") representations, followed by another repeating thinner bands of cross-planks representation("papan penukoh"), the bands separated by yellow-red-white-black lines. The dominant color is light brown-maroon, with dark brown highlights. Commercial cotton yarn and
mixed natural and synthetic dyes were apparently used for the vest.

KELAMBI MANANG
Sea Dayak(Iban) Shaman Sungkit JacketAn Iban shaman’s long-sleeved jacket (locally called “kalambi manang” or "baju manang") in red and old rose, with anthropomorphic motif in "sungkit" weave and "sekong" motif in supplementary brocade-type "songket" weave.
This jacket is estimated at more than 80 years old and came from the Kapit area in Sarawak, Borneo Island.

The highlight motifs are at the kalambi's back. At the top are two rows of splayed-legs anthropomorphic figures in “sungkit” black and white embroidered weave. The top row, with triangular chests, could represent male, while the bottom ones, with diamond shaped chests, could represent female. They are delineated by two rows of patterns on top and one below, with the diamond shape as the dominating pattern. This embroidered area measures about 13 x 8 inches. The bottom motif is the sekong design, a prevalent motif in textiles in Island Southeast Asia. The sekong, comprised of a diamond-chest with curling limbs, can be viewed horizontally as well as vertically, and the connectedness of the sekongs implies the close relationship with ancestors. This sekong motif is done in supplementary weft brocade technique ("songket")in gray, white and silver(?)metallic threads, and measures about 13 x 6 inches. The top anthropomorphic and the lower sekong designed rectangles are in very good-to-excellent condition. The jacket measures about 33 inches from shoulder to the hemline, 18 inches from shoulder to shoulder and 16 inches from shoulder to the cuff. Overall, the kalambi is in good and strong condition, with several small holes and slits(please refer to the pictures). The cotton yarn used is fine, and the weave feels slightly gritty to the touch.

DAYAK CHIEF's VEST
ORIGIN: SARAWAK,BORNEO(Collected between 1895 and 1927)
Vest with four beaded, anthropomorphized figures in yellow on a multicoloured geometric design background. Back panel has six beaded yellow figures on a multicoloured geometric design background. All attached on red, green and brown fabric with a stripe pattern. Red fabric edges. Closes at top front with three ties.

Ceremonial Jacket(MEMALOH People)
ORIGIN:Kalimantan, Upper Kapuas River region,
Probably early 20th century Cotton, glass beads, and metal bells ...
In beadwork the mythical dragon-serpent (aso) often merges chameleon-like with the background. On the back of this jacket, two aso figures with white eyes, green mouths, and curled black snouts face each other. Their orange bodies angle down to the lower edge, supported by a tightly coiled tail.

"Myths about heroes making dangerous journeys in search of valuable glass beads are common to the Maloh people of western Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo). Beads are hard and durable; they are thought to provide strength and longevity to the person who wears them. Beaded garments were worn only on the most important ceremonial occasions -- marriage, death, the opening of a new longhouse, a successful harvest. The number of beads on garments worn to celebrate a bountiful harvest were thought to relate to the number of rice grains that would be harvested the folowing year."